If you’re building a camper van and want a secure, customizable way to mount your batteries and inverter, 80/20 aluminum framing is a game-changer. In this post, we’ll walk through how we designed and installed a lithium battery system using 80/20 extrusion in a Ford Transit camper van—nicknamed Marine One.
This install not only supports a powerful off-grid system but also integrates with a Murphy bed and accommodates a para-golfer (an electric mobility cart). Let’s dive into how we structured it all.
Why Use 80/20 for a Camper Van Battery Install?
80/20 extruded aluminum (also called T-slot framing) is ideal for van builds because it’s:
Modular – Easily customizable and reconfigurable
Strong – Supports heavy components like lithium batteries
Clean looking – Helps give your van build a pro finish
In this setup, 80/20 serves as the structural backbone for both the power system and the Murphy bed support.
Power System Requirements
This van needed a reliable power system capable of:
- Charging the para-golfer’s dual golf cart batteries (approx. 200Ah)
- Powering all the van’s electrical components (lights, fridge, fan, etc.)
- Having some leftover power to recharge before the next use
We chose:
- Redarc Manager 30 – 30A all-in-one solar and DC-to-DC battery management
- EG4 3000W Inverter – Works seamlessly with the Redarc system
- SOK 100Ah LiFePO4 Batteries – Affordable, serviceable, and safe
- Victron Lynx Distributor – For tidy power distribution
Designing the 80/20 Frame
We began by measuring the space between the Murphy bed and the rear van panel, ensuring all components could fit without interfering.
Framing Steps:
- Rear Panel: Attached to the van wall using rivet nuts and 5/16-18 socket head cap screws
- Base Support: Framed using 80/20 to hold batteries securely
- Front Stop: Added a 2″ aluminum lip to prevent batteries from sliding forward
- Side Restraint: Final vertical 80/20 bar on the left to keep batteries from shifting under braking
Pro Tip: Use felt tape inside the 80/20 channels and on battery edges to eliminate rattles and protect surfaces.
Riga Heex: The Material That Ties It Together
We used Riga HEEXA birch plywood as a mounting base. It’s:
- Durable – Used in flight cases
- Grippy – Non-slip top layer
- Stylish – Complements the tactical look of the build
It was cut to fit inside the 80/20 channel grooves, offering a clean, flush-mounted finish.
Thermal and Acoustic Insulation
We used Havelock Wool as insulation behind the power system. Why Havelock?
- All-natural, sustainable
- Mold-resistant and fire-retardant
- Excellent sound dampening
Where deeper moisture or water resistance was needed, 3M Thinsulate (SM600L) was used for its hydrophobic properties.
Installation Tip: Use wide double-sided tape to hold insulation in vertical walls before mounting your power system—learned from an Adventure Wagon build.
Mounting the Components
Each component had to be carefully placed due to tight clearances with:
- The Murphy bed frame
- The para-golfer ramp and turning radius
- The inverter height and depth
Final Configuration:
- Inverter mounted horizontally at the bottom
- Redarc Manager 30 and Victron Lynx Distributor mounted above
- Battery compartment included four 100Ah SOK batteries strapped with Night Ize tie-downs (non-conductive and rubber-backed for safety)
Cable Management and Planning
One key lesson: place all components before cutting cable.
Long power cables (like 2 AWG or 4 AWG) are expensive and hard to splice once cut. Test fit everything and make sure your component layout is final before making electrical connections.
Aesthetics Matter Too
Taking inspiration from Steve Jobs’ attention to internal design, we made sure the inside of the system looks as good as the outside:
- Clean routing
- No unnecessary overlaps
- Easily serviceable
- Symmetrical and balanced layout
Final Results and Integration
The battery system now integrates perfectly with:
- The Murphy bed frame
- The water tank system (also framed with 80/20)
- Rear audio system including a JL Audio subwoofer
Everything fits like a glove, and thanks to the 80/20 + Riga Heex + insulation combination, it’s both strong and quiet.
Tools and Materials Used
Item – Purpose
80/20 Extruded Aluminum – Frame the power system
Riga HEEXA Birch Plywood – Durable battery base
SOK 100Ah LiFePO4 Batteries – Power storage
Redarc Manager 30 – Charging controller
EG4 Inverter – Converts DC to AC
Victron Lynx Distributor – Clean wiring hub
Havelock Wool & 3M Thinsulate – Thermal and sound insulation
Felt Tape – Vibration and rattle reduction
Night Ize Tie-Downs – Battery hold-downs
Conclusion: Is 80/20 the Best Way to Build a Camper Van Battery System?
Absolutely. If you’re installing a lithium battery system in your camper van, 80/20 framing offers unmatched precision, durability, and customization.
This method is:
- Strong enough for off-road travel
- Clean and professional in appearance
- Flexible for integrating with beds, tanks, and other van components
Have questions about your camper van power build or component layout? Drop them in the comments below, and be sure to catch our upcoming livestream where we’ll dive deeper into 12V wiring, fuses, and power distribution.
Need help designing your camper van power system?
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