Camper Van Conversion Q&A: Your Questions Answered

Real camper van conversion questions from our community and livestreams — water systems, electrical, flooring, windows, and more — answered by the Van Builder HQ team.

Camper Van Conversion Q&A: Your Questions Answered

The Van Builder HQ community and our weekly livestreams generate a lot of great questions. We've pulled together the most useful ones here — real questions from real van builders, answered by Nick and the team. Use the list below to jump to what you need.

  1. New van builder asking for some advice with more info to follow...
  2. Are spring-loaded hinges effective for a Murphy bed in a camper van? How do they compare to gas strut hinges in terms of space efficiency and ease of use?
  3. Can I install click-together flooring in my van over the existing mat with cushion, or is it necessary to use plywood as a base layer?
  4. Can you explain to me how to install a rigid scene light out side of van above sliding door on Transit Ford? like you did on you build so it does not leak thanks curtis
  5. Did you use 1010 or 1515 profile?
  6. Have you experienced any issues installing a solar panel above the Ford roof antenna? How does the placement affect performance or reception?
  7. How can I prevent condensation from damaging the circuit board during a Nomadic Cooling X2 48V air conditioner installation?
  8. Is it possible to build van cabinets and counters using wood glue, brad nails, and adding a few screws for extra strength? What are the pros and cons of this construction method?
  9. Is the Ford Transit rear wire to the driver’s side tail light included in the extended harness that goes to the ground? I'm extending mine but struggling to get enough slack from the tail light cables. Any advice?
  10. What is the correct way to apply Teflon tape to a threaded pipe? Should it cover all threads, and how many wraps are ideal for a secure seal?
  11. Where can I purchase a replacement condenser fan for the Dometic RTX 2000? Is there a direct link available for buying the fan online?
  12. Why is the water pump mounted so far forward from the tank and hot water heater in this van build? Does this affect performance or installation efficiency?

New van builder asking for some advice with more info to follow...

Hi Everybody! I'm a new member and still figuring out how do do certain things on this Forum.  I am waiting for a new Ford Transit high top, extended van to arrive.  I have a preliminary layout of the interior that has been evolving for the past several months. I'll eventually upload a PDF to this Forum and give members a chance to provide an evaluation.  Here's a description of a couple features that are a little different from what I've seen on other vans:

  1. A lift style bed mounted just behind the driver/passenger area.  Neither I or my wife are very tall (5' 6" and 5' 2") and I think we can make the bed so that we can both stand under under it when it is raised.

  2. A shower pan will be installed on a slightly raised floor in the rear of the van with a gray water tank installed in the spare tire area.  A curtain will hang from the ceiling to surround the shower area.  We do not want a dedicated shower area.

As soon as I have the PDF of the layout ready I'll upload it so you can have a better idea of what I would like to do and you can comment on things I need to consider or warnings about what may be wrong with the layout and what problems I may encounter. Thanks

Answer from twtransit (@twtransit):

Let's try adding the PDF this way.

Answer from twtransit (@twtransit):

Looks like the PDF still didn't work.  Let me see if I can try something else


Are spring-loaded hinges effective for a Murphy bed in a camper van? How do they compare to gas strut hinges in terms of space efficiency and ease of use?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

Spring-loaded hinges for a Murphy bed in a camper van work well with an aluminum or lightweight wood frame. I wouldn't recommend them for steel or anything heavier. The effectiveness depends not only on the weight but also the size of the bed—if there's too much leverage, the springs won't be enough. In the van build you're referencing, the springs don't have enough force to hold the bed up entirely; they just make it easier to manage when opening and closing. Even with the springs on all five hinges maxed out, the bed can still slam down if not guided. I hope this helps. Thanks!

Notes: The hinges discussed in the answer above are Single Action Stainless Steel 3 1/2-Inch x 3 1/2-Inch Spring Hinge.

Model number: DSH35U32D.

Original question by @yidai9690

from https://www.youtube.com/live/RC3403mnpbE?si=kU0L9QdFWDjM-_rh


Can I install click-together flooring in my van over the existing mat with cushion, or is it necessary to use plywood as a base layer?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

Hi Wanda,

I recommend removing the existing mat, even though it has a rubber-faced padded backing. While it may seem suitable as a base, it won’t work well for flooring because it doesn’t provide a rigid foundation. The mat’s flexibility can cause issues with the click-together flooring.

Instead, install a plywood base to create a solid surface for proper installation. This will reduce road noise, improve comfort, and extend the life of your floor.

For more details, check out my DIY floor installation video for steps on prepping, insulating, and installing the base in the video linked below.

Original question by @wandachandler8331 from https://youtu.be/IEp85LmhBNs?si=JBT15d44MRQq7q5d


Can you explain to me how to install a rigid scene light out side of van above sliding door on Transit Ford? like you did on you build so it does not leak thanks curtis

Answer from Jamie Eilerman (@jseilerman):

Hi Curtis, come in Jan - Mar of 2025 Nick will be covering this. There is not a video up of this part yet but will be coming soon.


Did you use 1010 or 1515 profile?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

15 Series 80/20 from 8020.net


Have you experienced any issues installing a solar panel above the Ford roof antenna? How does the placement affect performance or reception?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

I can't confirm any issues with covering the Ford factory antenna on the roof with a solar panel, however the first roof rack I installed I did move the antenna outside of the solar panel where it was not covered only because I was preventatively doing it while I was at the installation point.

On my next build (Jon and Susan's Van) I did cover the antenna with a solar panel but I also installed a new stereo system with a separate GPS antenna mounted to the front windshield, it's difficult to say that the solar panel covering the antenna has affected the Ford sync systems GPS enough for it to not work (Jon and Susan are using Apple Car Play for navigation).

If you feel comfortable enough to relocate the Ford factory antenna it might be good to do this, seeing how Ford sometimes updates the system on the newer vans remotely.

If your van is a newer van, make a note that when you do relocate the antenna there is not that much black only about 8 in to work with so just consider the final mounting location on the roof when you're moving it, also you'll need to use a waterproof gland that allows for the wire to not be cut and instead be slipped over the wire to create the waterproof seal. let me know if you have any other questions on this I'll be happy to discuss further.

Original question by @jdierberger from https://youtu.be/I6c2vCiPhPM?si=VCpYL_FcpOSFxNGd


How can I prevent condensation from damaging the circuit board during a Nomadic Cooling X2 48V air conditioner installation?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

Hi Josie,

It is challenging to prevent all possible condensation in a roof to mounted a/c unit. This main cause for this is due to the drastic difference in temperature from the inside and outside. This difference in temperature and presence of humidity of where your are located (i.e. Florida vs. Arizona) will ultimately affect this. Properly insulating you van (Walls, Ceiling & Floor) and sealing off the air space around the roof top a/c unit's duct area is the first step.

The second step would be to coat the exposed circuit board with a conformal coating to protect form moisture shorting the circuit board prematurely. I describe how to do this below, hope that helps!

To protect your RV air conditioner’s circuit board from condensation, use a conformal coating spray. A conformal coating spray is a chemical layer that forms a thin, non-conductive film on the circuit board, shielding it from moisture, dust, and corrosion. Start by cleaning the board, masking sensitive areas, and spraying the coating evenly. Once it cures, the board will be better protected against moisture (but not waterproof).

Original question by

@josie5054 from https://www.youtube.com/live/Fc3f-_KJ4eY?si=P0cahS47-8U6-IxY


Is it possible to build van cabinets and counters using wood glue, brad nails, and adding a few screws for extra strength? What are the pros and cons of this construction method?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

Hi Rod,

Yes, it’s possible to build cabinets and countertops using wood glue, brad nails, and extra screws for strength. However, you should focus on reinforcing the joints. In my kitchen galley, I used Kreg screws for sturdiness since I had the space to assemble the fairly large panels.

Due to space limitations with the drawers fixed width, I had to use brad nails and wood glue, reinforcing the inside corners with braces.

Kreg screws can be used on the exterior of the cabinet or drawers, but only do this if you plan on covering the exterior with veneer or upholstery later.

Original question by @rod8073 from https://www.youtube.com/live/A_q1KnbK7RM?si=Go_RB_hJRzSjXabX


Is the Ford Transit rear wire to the driver’s side tail light included in the extended harness that goes to the ground? I'm extending mine but struggling to get enough slack from the tail light cables. Any advice?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

The Ford Transit rear wire harness for the driver’s side tail light is connected to three ground wires located in the lower rear quarter panel. To get enough slack, remove the three grounding bolts, group the ground wires together with a bolt through the eyelets, and use a 6-gauge wire to extend the ground. This will relieve the tension and allow you to move the harness.

Depending on your van's year, see if you have a rear mounted light switch in the left door frame next to the wire harness, if so this needs to be un plugged (you will not be able to use this again unless you extend it as well) also check for metal clips holding the wires in place after unbolting and extending the grounds. Hope that helps!

Original question by @Teh8thWonder from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rc9ht8rn5U8&lc=UgwE9d54tePETFzS6V94AaABAg


What is the correct way to apply Teflon tape to a threaded pipe? Should it cover all threads, and how many wraps are ideal for a secure seal?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

Use these steps to apply Teflon or PTFT tape to your fitting:

  • Clean the threads: Make sure the threads are free of debris.
  • Wrap the tape: Start at the base of the threads, wrapping the tape clockwise (the same direction the fitting will turn). This prevents the tape from unraveling when tightening.
  • Overlap slightly: Wrap 3-5 layers of tape, overlapping each layer slightly, but don't cover the end of the pipe to avoid tape getting into the system.
  • Tighten the fitting: Once wrapped, hand-tighten, then secure with a wrench if needed.

For reference, when I am using the Rector Seal Soft Set Sealant, I will reduce my wraps to 2-3 wraps, FOR PLASTIC WATER TANKS BE CAREFUL TO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE FITTING ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE USING BRASS INTO PLASTIC. Although it is not recommended to use metal fitting with plastic, its is quite common to do. That's why I use the Soft Set Sealant to help when I feel that I am being to aggressive with the tightness of my tank fittings. Hope that helps.

Original question by @myfellowneckbeards27­87 from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKM1JPEntEg&lc=UgwSJeBtGoDtXNZNs0F4AaABAg


Where can I purchase a replacement condenser fan for the Dometic RTX 2000? Is there a direct link available for buying the fan online?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

Unfortunately, you need a dealer account with Dometic to purchase parts directly from them. While they may offer a one-time pass, it's typically necessary to have a dealer number to order replacement parts.

Dometic has two divisions: customer service for their main line of products and the products produced for commercial trucks division. Depending on your needs, you may need to contact one or the other. I hope this helps.

Original question by @hanyfarouk4610

from https://www.youtube.com/live/Fc3f-_KJ4eY?si=P0cahS47-8U6-IxY


Why is the water pump mounted so far forward from the tank and hot water heater in this van build? Does this affect performance or installation efficiency?

Answer from Nick Eilerman (@neilerman):

Hi Pat,

The water pump is only about 3 to 4 feet away from the water tank and hot water heater. We had to mount it outside the enclosure due to space limitations and placed it in the kitchen galley area. This location allows easier access for maintenance.

According to the manufacturer, as long as the pump is less than 6 feet above the intake, it will operate properly. You have some flexibility in placement, but it's ideal to keep the pump as close to the water source as possible within the manufacturer’s specifications. Great question, hope this helps.

Original question by @patweidmann6804 from https://www.youtube.com/live/wBiorSPLWzM?si=1psrHwAUdJx7k_PM


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