Crimping 4/0 Copper Cable for 2nd alternator in a campervan converstion | VBHQ Live!
May 3, 2025
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View Video Transcript
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[Music]
1:19
hey guys welcome back to the live stream we're talking about crimping 4 a copper cable and if you don't know what the
1:25
word 4/0 means for a it's just a really
1:31
chunky cable um so we're going to go over here on this camera and we're going to be talking about these two cables so
1:39
this one is they're both the same thing one's just covered in black rubber one's covered in
1:44
red and uh we're just going to Simply crimp these two connections on we're going to talk about kind of teach you
1:50
some details on what size to get what's appropriate why we're going with such a
1:56
chunky cable um what we're connecting it to on the van and then uh we're going to
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go through a crimping tool that you got to have uh some other
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tools um for cutting this type of cable stripping the
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outer uh rubber off of it and then um finally we'll do some
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heat shrinking and really what I'm doing is I'm getting this ready to go into the
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van behind me so I need to preo this cuz we're going from uh so what I did is I
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installed a second alternator and that second alternator needs puts out a ton of juice it's a 280
2:37
amp alternator and so uh yeah you need some big old chunky cables to get that
2:43
uh Power all the way to the back of the van and for the customer that this van is built for they want to go to events
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um but they also since they're parked they're not going to be able to recharge uh off of solar if they use air
3:01
conditioning during the day so this is going to allow them to crank their van up for about an hour and charge their
3:06
battery back back up to 50% so they have a 600 amp hour system so with a 600 amp
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hour system and solar that they're getting in this 280 amps uh can almost
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get that about 50% within an hour um all right so we're going to talk about that
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uh I'm going to hop over here to the computer real quick just to explain why
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we're going with such a massive chunky cable so if we hop on the computer over
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here there's something called uh it's an impac chart so it's a wire gauge chart
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that lets you know how much current uh different gauges of cable can uh
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withstand so I'm going to go um grab just a bunch of cables out of my
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little electrical cart and I'll show you uh what I'm talking about
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out so I just randomly picked up this is we'll go over here
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to the other camera so this right here is six gauge
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and this is what I use a lot for uh just inside wiring uh like if I have a uh
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subpanel so I've got like a main panel in the 12vt system of the van this would
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feed a sub panel and if we hop back on the computer you can see that that six
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gauge is good for about
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um 65 75 amps uh you can also go on here and do 6
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AWG search on YouTube and just type in Max
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Amps and so right here we've got 55
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amps 55 to 65 depending on how much you want to push it as well as being able to
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fuse that circuit but then if we type in uh so this is where it gets weird so the
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scale goes um the wire gauge chart the bigger
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the number the smaller the wire so 22 gauge is very very small wire and
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then as you move up you get to bigger wire so for example six
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gauge if you go up in size so that means the wire is getting bigger the number
5:45
goes down so you got 6 4 3 2 1 gauge and then it goes one sl0 which is uh
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described as one a that's how you say that so you got one out two o three out
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and four o is pretty much the biggest one before you go into
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some you know crazy uh wire size territory but the reason we're using
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that is if we go back on YouTube here I'm sorry Google and we change the six
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gauge and we change it to 40 you're going to see that it's going
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to give us a number um about 230 amps so there's a
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bunch of different charts uh you just need to you need to look at a couple of
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them because um depending on what you get so this is from a company called
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windy Nation it's not sponsored but every van that I've built I've bought Wy
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Nation welding and battery cable that's what I've bought and it's been really
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good nice and uh robust uh for
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but this cable is can uh is rated for 200 230 to 260
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amps now what was confusing to me is the manufacturer not this this is the
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regulator controller um actually let me hop over here I'm talking on the wrong
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camera um the alternator and the regulator are going to have a Max
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potential charging of 28 8 amps but we're probably never going to see that
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because we also in the van have um two additional DC todc Chargers and those
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two additional uh DC todc Chargers are providing 50 amps each so we got 100
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amps of charging uh potential out of them and not only that but we have an
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additional uh those are built-in solar in PPT
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charge controllers as well so the 420 WTS of solar on the roof is going
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to always be on during the day and so these boxes regulate all that inflow of
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power so when the Sun's shining power's going into these box these converter boxes when you're driving down the road
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and your engine alternator so not the second alternator but the engine alternator is running it's on one
8:27
channel charging that's a to DC side and then this thing right here this is called a wake speed
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controller so this is the Box specifically programmed for
8:39
the um nation's 280 amp second
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alternator that I've installed in the van so what that means is there's the original Ford factory alternator that
8:51
hasn't been touched and then what we've done is installed a second alternator
8:56
with the whole bracket system new belt tensioner and uh it's also
9:04
Incorporated to the AC compressor which all that means is that whole system is driving together um AC has nothing to do
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with it it's just happens to be in that belt drive path um so that might be a
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little overwhelming for a DIY but to be honest if you take your
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time um the instructions the ones that I provided on my live stream watch that
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video it goes in depth on all the stuff that I saw that the manual did not incorporate and so I added my kind of
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two cents on the stuff that was missing um so the bracketry and everything is ready to go this is the
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final step so what we're going to be doing today is crimping these wires and then there's a massive harness that's
9:53
going to be uh zip tied and pulled throughout the
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van um it's actually under the van so I'm going to I'm just going to leave it there I
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kind of already have it halfway organized um but yeah today's video is just
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talking about how to crimp these chunky things um but that's a little bit of background about why this video is
10:17
existing today cuz today's the day we're going to run this cable um from the alternator to the back and I've already
10:25
found the path that I want to do but I've got it I need to uh I'm letting the
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RTV sealant and the uh the hole that I drilled behind the
10:41
gasoline uh heater had to relocate that so that's all drying right now so I need
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that to dry for at least 24 hours to fully cure before I start messing around with it
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so that uh plug gland whatever you want to call it the entrance in the van
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that's water sealed that needs to dry and set up so in the meantime I'm hopping over here and doing this and
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it's just a good it's a good time also to you know teach you guys what tools you're going to
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need when you're doing this cuz you're going to have to buy tools you can't get away with using some wire pliers and a hammer
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and uh like an anvil crimper so if you guys don't have if you have no idea what that is like uh
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hey guys thanks for check tuning in if you want to watch this in uh like 4K
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it's live right now on YouTube just go to YouTube and then type in Van Builder HQ and you'll see me streaming live and
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you'll see a nicer image it'll be zoomed in to to all this
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stuff um yeah but you're going to need these
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tools uh so let's just let's hop right into it the first thing uh that's the
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most important um actually I'll start with the cable
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this cable uh they it's called welding wire because it's more traditionally used for as a a welding cable lead so
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providing cable to a welder um welders use very high amounts of current to do
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their thing and uh that's just kind of where this name came from but these
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cables are also battery cables because they're just designed to flow High
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current um they're very expensive this copper is very expensive right now so
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this is 54 lbs of wire it's 25 ft 54 lbs I'm going to be
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right at 20 to 21 feet when I pull this um I'm going to do it in one run so you
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really can't mess up um this is almost $600 and cable just these two rolls so it's a
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it's a lot of uh it's kind of lot writing on it so
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um you want to do this right I'm going to tell you the tools that you need to to do it right and uh you know have some
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fun too you're going to be using a heat gun heat shrinking and I I I like doing
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this so that's the cable um I believe it or not get this off at Amazon you just
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go up to Wy Nation Wy Nation sells this in variety again this is not a sponsored video but there's a variety of sizes all
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the sizes you could ever want they have um so we got four out 25 and then we got
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25 ft of each so we're ready to go it's important that we pull both negative and
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positive from the alternator and what we're going to do is we're going to have the next step of
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what you want to buy is the battery lugs or these terminals here now these these
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guys uh you don't want to just randomly buy
14:04
these you want to specifically try to find a UL listed part there's a lot of
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stuff um out of China that is you know copper plated or it's not it's not the
14:17
best grade um and when you're Distributing such a high current you
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want to uh safety's just got to be Paramount in a van this is a lot of current so I
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mean if they're using it for welding things you can imagine how much current is coming through this when it's
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charging the batteries um so these terminals are really important they're the connection
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point to whatever you're using and uh one thing you want to do and this is
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going to get a little nerdy for a second but the surface area of these terminals is really important because if you think
14:52
about it the cable can only do so much in transmitting it once it gets to this lug this is what's finally take putting
14:59
it into whatever you're doing whether it's the battery the alternator output connection um and so a pro tip is you
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don't want to just buy a bag randomly for a 4 o you want to take the extra
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step and make sure you measure whatever terminal that you're going to put these on so for example if
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uh I go and grab a battery this is a terrible example but
15:28
this is just what I have quickly so say this is your battery this
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bolt that bolts to your battery to hold your cable this the bolt size needs to
15:39
be the same uh needs to be the same diameter as this right
15:46
here so I'm going to hop on the other camera really quick um there we go so you see this one
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we've got a four o UL listed 38 hole so this a 38 diameter hole and then the
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second one we have today right here this is a 4 516 UL listed now it's okay that
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they look differently these are both UL listed um components um believe the one on the
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right is tined copper and the one on the left is solid copper so
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um we got two different sizes why do we have two different sizes this is going to the terminal stud I'll come back to
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to the uh Instagram camera here in just a second this one is a terminal stud for the alternator positive output this is
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the grounding leg that's going to go to the mounting bolt of the alternator to
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make a grounding contact all right so we got two here you guys want
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to check it out see there you go and then these they're going in two
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different places the diameters are different because the bolt holds the alternator to ground is this size it's
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38 bolt 38 bolt and then the output terminal positive on the alternator is
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516 so what we're going to do is we're take the copper one and the 10 copper
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one over here and we're going to put on the negative so this one goes on the negative so 38 on the negative 5/16 on
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the positive it's really important you do that because if you make it too big it's
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going to move back and forth over time and that can loosen the nut believe it or not so again a bad connection is
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going to create a hot spot and it's going to Arc and that's not good on a
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vehicle um so all those bad stories you hear
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about Vans burning down and stuff like that it's because you're not taking the time to do this right so this video is
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about doing it right all right let's keep going here so we got the two
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terminals got the cables the next thing we want to
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do is uh make sure that we have the proper heat shrink so that once we crimp
18:08
this we can uh heat shrink it so we'll be talking about this heat shrink in a
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second um but the main star of the show is this hydraulic crimper right here so
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this is a hydraulic crimper you can get this off of uh
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Amazon and it comes with a bunch of dyes
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and this is you have to have this this is just what you got to have the hydraulic crmp is going to make the
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safest connection of the ter the battery terminal to this um or the the lug
18:43
battery lug and then you want to go through and label all these dieses so you don't mix
18:48
them up so we've got we went ahead and pulled out our forat we put it into our crimping tool that's ready to
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go next tool is this this is a
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uh uh HD cable cutter and it has a specific way that it shears through the
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copper so the copper strands are like a bunch of little hairs and if you just
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took like a big pair of scissors or some
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pliers it's not going to cut it cleanly um it's going to have the wires all over
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the place and the downside of that is when you go to put this lug on the
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inside diameter of these lugs is a standardized diameter for a 4 o cable or
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whatever lug you're using so what you want to do is you need to cut this in a
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way so I'm actually going to cut just a hair of this off for an example but if
19:52
you watch when I go through here and I cut this
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is going to Shear it off cleanly so look at that so you can see how that and
20:07
I'm see if I can get the cable over
20:14
here okay so you see that see how that's I mean that's very clean
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cut okay and that's just not that's going to make it so it's not a pain in the butt when we go to crimp it which
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we'll see here in just a second so this one's good let's see here so this one we
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need to cut just to give it a nice
20:39
fresh thing so
20:45
we if you can do a pro job take the time to do a pro job you're going you're going to feel better about the work that
20:52
you're doing all right next thing you want to have a permanent marker and you're going
20:59
to want to kind of Mark where you want to uh strip this uh
21:06
cable so this thing is again another essential tool it's kind of jonard tools
21:11
it's a cst-1900 so I'll hop on the other camera show you
21:17
that so this right here this what happens is you open it up and it's got a
21:24
little razor inside that you can adjust the height and and this is going to come
21:30
over the wire like this and when it crimps down it pierces
21:37
the wire but it doesn't cut into the copper cable and then we're going to rotate this around to get the
21:44
uh uh cover off
21:51
so yeah so what we're going to do the reason we got the permanent marker is
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before we do that we're going to put our cable just like
22:01
this and we want to imagine that we've cut this and it's
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going to stuff inside the terminal so what I do and this is more teaching tool
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for you guys um so this we want the cable length
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to be so right here where I put this dot that Dash um that Dash is so from this bottom
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Dash right there so the bottom Dash to the top Dash that from here to here is how much
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uh of the insulation I want to take off of the wire and I want to keep this little space up here cuz when it goes in
22:46
it's going to fray out and that's going to give us a really good connection so let's hop on over
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here and okay so now that we got
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you can see what I'm going to do is I'm going to hold the wire here and then I'm going to Mark right
23:07
there so when I go to strip this that is where I'm going to rotate my this wire
23:14
stripper tool I'm going to do the same thing I'm going to mark this little middle of the that tapered
23:21
section and then I'm just going to take my positive I mark it
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okay now I should have this set from the last time I did this so it should be pretty good but basically all you want
23:37
to do is you want to air on the sign of caution uh so don't cut all the way
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through it the first time just kind of figure out where
23:47
your starting Point's going to be so all right so there's that and then we
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want to where this open area area is that's the the way we want to rotate it
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so for today that's counterclockwise so we're just going to take our finger and just pull this
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around like that couple times and so it's cutting the
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cable um and then what we can do is we can ever so slightly bend that and see we didn't
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pierce it so we're just going to open this back up
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again and in a perfect world we're going back on the same score
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line U but if you miss it's it's not the end of the world all right so we're just going to
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Loop that around and again I'm taking my time I
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can usually do this in just a couple seconds I'm just showing you how you would dial in your tool so this is right
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I mean it's right there so we're just going to do a slight turn
24:59
come back in all right and then we're going to do same
25:12
thing okay so you can see how that's cutting the
25:19
cable and see you can actually do this and then just kind of
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break it away like that so see what happens see we just
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took this off there's zero wire we didn't cut any of the copper
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wires and uh not only that everything is nice and straight so when we have our
25:46
lug see how if we're really careful the lug will slip right
25:53
on and then all we got to do here is just work its way in and you see I push
26:01
I'm pushed in as hard as I can and we've got a perfect amount inserted into this
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cable so the fun part now is um so another Pro tip
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here we I don't know where this is going to end because I got to feed it through the whole entire van back up to the top
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so I'm not worried about that but in this scenario um what I do is actually Mark
26:26
the lug so I Mark a straight line on the lug because if I was making uh battery
26:33
terminals or some type of additional Connection in the van with this I would want to mirror my lugs so
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that this cable actually goes in the van neatly so always put a mark so that when
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you go to crimp this doesn't Twist on you so that that's more of like a pro
26:55
tip for later okay so now that we have this here
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get to the next part which is the fun part got our hydraulic
27:09
crimper and we're just going to open this up so we got it loose
27:22
and then we're just going to get this seat we want to seat this in
27:28
here first before we crimp it
27:33
down and we want to hold it on one side to make sure it's lined up nice and then we want to
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be um right in the middle of this crimp
27:46
so if you guys can see right there we're just putting this uh I'll show you on the ne after
27:51
this is done and it'll make sense to you so make this like a almost like a
27:57
kickstand hold [Applause]
28:04
on there we go so kind of make this like a kickstand
28:10
and uh have the table hold it and then your hand is holding it so it doesn't Twist
28:16
on you and I'm only show you this doesn't matter if this Twisted because we're going underneath the van and I
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don't know where this is going but again practice this way so you can make nice
28:27
neat connections on the inside the van we do shorter connections so we're going to get this
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right in the middle and just keep
28:38
going there's a wheel over here that you got to lock in and that gets make sure the fluid
28:45
starts to compress this okay and we're just going to do this until we can get it nice
28:53
and seated okay so then when it's
29:01
seated you can kind of hold it like that and this is when I now I'm kind of a perfectionist I want
29:08
I want this to visually look really nice too
29:15
so Okay so we've almost got it fully crimped so now it's crimped enough to where it's holding itself and I'm just
29:21
going to hit it one more time
29:44
and then when you feel like you can't go anymore I just I just let it set for like 5 seconds and then I relieve the
29:54
pressure and so now you can see we've we' got a hydraulic crimp that's even
30:00
right in the middle and what you really want to see is I'll show you on the other
30:06
camera you want to see this thing
30:11
bubble so if you can see this now my Mark's off just a little bit
30:18
that's not a big deal but if I turn it this sideways you see how it's this
30:24
bubble right here on this this front part so that is really what you want to see
30:30
you want to see that bubble here and then back here in the back and then what you want to do
30:35
is you know do everything you can to try to take that off um but the nice thing about these
30:41
hydraulic crimps are they are extremely tight so that's excellent and then if I
30:49
kind of move it around and push it you can see that that rubber sleeve will stay nice and
30:55
clean all right and then we'll go over back to this
31:01
camera and now it's time to uh talk about the heat shrink so if you go on
31:07
Amazon to buy heat shrink now this isn't my first time doing this and it's wild that this still
31:15
uh is like an issue this is inch and a half heat
31:21
shrink and this is 1in heat shrink but whatever method that they use to measure
31:28
this is not it's always random if I order an
31:33
inch and a half piece sometimes I get something like this which is 3 in so when they say inch and a half they're
31:40
assuming that you know that it's doubled but then at the same time you can order from another
31:47
manufacturer and get a 1 in and it is and it's an inch and a
31:52
half so they're not that expensive I ordered two and then I find out what
31:58
manufacturer has the same correct description and I just tossed the other one but if you order this is my extra
32:07
but if you order from Wy Nation they're going to give you a bag of these in a 38 size and then some heat
32:16
shrink all right for the final step of this video we're going to heat shrink
32:21
this um I'm going to keep this video short all you got to do is just you know
32:27
repeat the same thing on this negative cable all right so we got this and we
32:34
want to take our heat shrink and what you want to do
32:41
is we need to find wherever our terminal is so I'm going to go back under the van really quick and then I'm going to show
32:48
you what Medan surface is on the terminal the reason you want to do that
32:53
is when we get our heat shrink on here uh so I'm just going to assume I'm
33:00
going to cut this much right here so this is more than I need but it's also
33:06
me proving a point here so when this goes over what we want to do is we want to
33:13
take this heat shrink and we want to push it all the way up and cover as much
33:19
of this exposed metal as possible Right to where that mounting location is so I'm going to go underneath the
33:26
van I will put a little dot on here where the
33:33
terminal ends and then that's how I know much where I'm going to put the heat
33:38
shrink to
34:12
okay so I'll get on this zoomed in camera so right there see how I moved the terminal and I
34:21
got a little score line right there so that score line is the end of where the
34:27
metal is on the terminal so I'm going to scoot my here I'll mark
34:33
it so my insulation is going to go all the way
34:38
to right there where that black line is that way all of this is
34:49
covered okay so we measured it and so now we know that that's how much we're going to
34:57
go up that far
35:03
okay so I'm going to cut off just a little more of
35:12
this and usually what I like to do is come out about an inch on each
35:20
side and it depends on your what what you're doing and then before I do that I
35:25
want to make sure that this uh rubber part is pushed up all the way to
35:32
here and then I'm going to take this and I'm going to make a
35:49
Mark that way my heat shrink doesn't go past that
35:55
dot yeah and then so now we have as much of this terminal covered and all that's
36:02
left is all we need for it to touch and make connection so to wrap this up we've got
36:09
a warrior so this is Amazon and this is Harbor Freight so there's nothing wrong
36:16
with getting all that stuff what you got to have is this stuff got to have this cutter the hydraulic crimper the
36:23
stripper um and that's to do it right so what we're going to do before I turn this on it gets loud we're want to heat
36:30
this one side where the crease is I like to heat the crease first and then twist it heat the other crease um that way
36:37
that crease gets pulled in and it doesn't look weird um now you know
36:43
nobody's really going to care about this I like to have it functional and look good at the same
36:49
time so we're going to uh
36:59
and you you can let the gun heat up for a second and then come over here till it gets uh kind of red
37:07
hot but my recommendation is start where the crease
37:13
is and then flip it over go to the other
37:19
crease and before this thing gets too shrunk make sure it hasn't moved you don't want it move in too much
37:26
past that line line cuz it's shrinking obviously so it's going to shrink a little
37:33
bit but stay on the sides um that's going to help you not
37:39
get those the wrinkles in this and then then you can actually come through and start
37:48
to kind of neaten everything up um
38:14
and now we just want to take our time and make sure we get a really good shrink on this the nice thing about four
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o cable is it really can absorb a lot of heat so
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the copper believe it or not is pulling a lot of heat out of this heat shrink and pulling it down into the cable
38:35
itself so you might have to spend a little bit more time and again I'm
38:40
overdoing this just for example purposes for
38:45
you and the main reason we want to heat shrink is we want to prevent corrosion of the terminal on the inside uh from
38:53
water and stuff like that and so we really just want to make sure that
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this gets the best heat shrink
39:08
[Laughter]
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possible and this dip right here on this front face needs a little bit more heat
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yeah so we're pretty much done I'm just kind of playing around right now just kind of showing you what to
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do um and again if you have a lower gauge wire uh you have you you probably will
39:48
melt if you do it that long so for smaller wires you know you might be a
39:55
quarter of the time that I just took to do this one but now we got everything heat shrunk um it's nice and sealed here
40:03
so that is it that is the that's the video so we're just going to let this cool we'll go ahead and do
40:11
another one here we'll hop on this uh say hi to
40:20
everybody and we'll go to this one there we go so there you go super nice neat
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heat shrink not
40:35
me there you go and we've got a little dot in the back so we know our heat shrink isn't
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going to be cut by our screw that or our bolt that hooks us to the
40:47
alternator and yeah so we're just going to let this cool down and now
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we've got this heat shrink completed
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all right well that is going to be it for this uh live stream hope you guys enjoyed it
41:12
um also want to tell you guys about my DIY uh van build cheat sheet so hop on
41:21
over here to the computer so I have something called the DIY van build cheat sheet it's essentially an Excel document
41:26
of the last three years of all my Amazon purchases that have come to the shop so if you want a quick way to find some
41:31
parts on your DIY van conversion you can hit uh go to this link in the description below and this has over 250
41:39
curated items when I mean curated it means that they're organized from like electrical fuses wire uh solar panels
41:48
water pumps um a lot of the hard all the hardware that I used to do 8020 so the
41:54
8020 install on this adventure van behind me um a lot of those uh button
41:59
head cap screws that sort of thing those stainless steel components are on that list as well um there's a bunch of other
42:06
things uh and the list is always growing so we're going to ready to come out with like a 2.0 version pretty soon so look
42:13
forward to that I've got about 150 more items I got to put on there um so as soon as this van's done I think I can
42:20
get back to the uh adding the updating the sheet but in the meantime this sheet is completely free all you got to do is
42:26
Click on the link download um so once you click on the link just put your name
42:32
and email address it'll come straight to your inbox it's completely free I really think it'll help you out so check it out
42:38
it's called the DIY van build cheat sheet and then last but not least very excited to announce
42:45
the DIY camper van conversion course so over the last three years I've been
42:52
we've been taking all the questions that you guys have on the YouTube um questions I've had from customers
42:57
working with them um just all that knowledge and I'm putting into a course called the camper van conversion
43:03
blueprint and this course um we're doing a pre-order right now so you guys can
43:08
save on the course uh before it comes out and launches October 1st this year
43:14
so really excited about it um just to give you a quick overview of what is in the course or what you can expect to be
43:20
in the course um we've got a getting starting guide so basically talking about the benefits of a DIY camper um
43:26
what to to expect when you you know get one and kind of what Journeys are exploring you guys can do um and then
43:34
also considerations like planning for your budget stuff like that um let me
43:40
rotate my Instagram my Instagram people over
43:46
here so yes we got a getting started part um and if you guys on Instagram
43:52
want to see this I'm still on YouTube uh go to YouTube go to Van Builder HQ and
43:57
uh you can see this live in 4k next we have um choosing your van
44:03
we'll talk about you know do you want two wheel drive all-wheel drive you know how much weight are you carrying uh is
44:09
it going to be a heavy van light van um all makes and models engine size stuff
44:14
like that then we'll hop into design and layout you know what do you want your van to look like where are you
44:22
going uh we'll work on talking about how to put together an offgrid power system
44:27
so when I say offgrid power system that means it is disconnected from the engine it is an independent system that is
44:33
powered by solar uh or some additional power input and it is kind of an uh it
44:38
can be an all-in-one system like the ecoflow that's really popular right now or it could be an individualized component system like the uh reny M1
44:47
controller uh or the victron uh components then we'll talk about fresh
44:53
and graywater storage um we just did a recently did a live stream on on that and I think that'll really help you out
44:59
so go back and check on that uh insulation and sound dampening
45:04
that's really important so believe it or not not just riding on the road and driving but when you get to a campsite
45:09
it's going to help really block out that outside noise so you can sleep nice and comfortably at night when you're at RV
45:16
park or like a KOA for example and then we'll wrap up the course talking about exterior upgrades um really focusing on
45:23
the roof rack rooftop AC Max fan ventilation solar panels awnings um and then even
45:30
some rooftop storage although by the time you get all that stuff on there uh
45:36
you know you're you may be slightly overweight so we'll also talk about that speaking of overweight finalizing your
45:43
build we'll talk about safety is your van overloaded um is it past its uh GVW
45:51
which is the rated weight uh the rated weight rating of your van there's a Max
45:58
number on every single van pickup truck car uh for the occupants as well as the
46:04
cargo and safety is topnotch on this when you really overload your van the
46:10
vehicle Dynamics change and it can get really dangerous when you're driving 80 miles down the highway so we'll talk
46:16
about those considerations um we'll get into stain road legal we'll even get
46:22
into uh financing we'll get into Insurance we'll get into um prep for
46:27
your first adventure and then uh last but not least we're going to uh open up
46:33
a private online community so it's essentially a forum we're going to take all the questions from the YouTube channel uh from my past customers and
46:41
stuff like that we'll put it in there so that you guys can bounce ideas off each other I'll hop in and answer a bunch of
46:48
questions kind of like I do on YouTube and uh yeah so you'll get access
46:54
to that private online community and right now you can pre-order buy the course today and you
47:01
can save um it's just a thank you for pre-ordering this course as uh we rolled
47:06
this out on October 1st so excited to uh finally have this
47:12
uh being put together um and also not only the course check
47:19
out van Builder HQ just in general so this is a website there's a blog post
47:24
and there's tons of articles on this website so these are articles that my brother and I have uh put together so it's
47:31
basically my brain dumped out into a blog post uh in detail we go over a
47:37
bunch of topics so if you have random stuff you want to have a deep dive on
47:42
it's all here the cool thing is all the content on here all the photos they're all the events that we've flown to
47:48
traveled to uh interviewed and you may have seen those videos on uh the Youtube
47:55
channel but if you want to go to a bunch of the shows just watch these show tours that we do uh when we go out west to a
48:02
couple of these van shows as well as the ones that are in Florida um all right that is all I got
48:11
today thank you guys so much for watching make sure that you subscribe click that notification Bell I go live
48:18
randomly throughout the week and don't you want don't want you to miss an episode um yeah click the notification
48:26
Bell something randomly today that I might hop back online and uh talk about if you have any questions or comments on
48:32
the uh electrical system other than kind of what we did today with a wire crimping you know put that into the
48:39
comments below um and then always check in for a live stream where you can ask questions live when I'm on
48:46
YouTube and uh for everybody that's on Instagram thanks so much for watching uh trying to get all the
48:53
streams here and uh having a lot of fun but uh yeah we're going to go ahead and
48:59
uh sign off thank you guys so much for watching we'll see you guys in the next live
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[Music]
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stream e