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Adventure Wagon Interior Conversion Kit Install Part One
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May 3, 2025
Today Nick at Van Builder HQ is showing us how to install a camper van interior conversion kit by Adventure Wagon. This is part 1 of the series. Visit https://www.vanbuilderhq.com to learn more. Interested in buying a van? Check out https://www.odysseycustomvans.com Support Van Builder HQ on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/vanbuilderhq
View Video Transcript
0:00
[Music]
0:07
all right guys got guys here much earlier than anticipated so
0:13
they're supposed to come at three o'clock anyway we got our adventure wagon coming in here we go
0:29
all right fedex has delivered the adventure wagon kit and because of
0:35
the garage situation i'm not going to be able to uh get it in there because there's a big
0:41
patch of grass this is 600 pounds so i'm actually just going to go ahead and start disassembling this and putting it
0:48
into the shop hey everyone nick eilerman here welcome back
0:53
we are getting ready to install our adventure wagon interior conversion kit i couldn't be more excited because it's
0:58
been sitting in the shop for a couple weeks and i've been dying to get ready to install this um if you guys
1:06
have watched some other videos we're doing a massive renovation of this old warehouse to get it
1:12
up to par to be able to work on these vans the good news is we got everything painted in place so
1:19
go back and check out those videos they're pretty cool still got a couple more things we got to finish up on the renovation but we got i've got that on
1:25
hold right now so i can go ahead and start the process of still installing the first thing in this van which is the
1:32
interior kit so typically you would install the floor
1:38
or install the windows during a typical van van build however with the way
1:44
everything is going with shipping and delays and stuff like that the windows are on back order for about a month and
1:50
a half the flooring just got in yesterday but i'm holding off on it because one thing with adventure wagon
1:56
is it is meant to be installed with you can just keep the factory floor in place so the panels on
2:03
the bottom are a little long and i wanted to see how much room i either wanted to take off of those
2:09
panels or just leave and make the floor a little bit narrower
2:15
so i'm just kind of waiting on um to see what it looks like when we install this kit but if you're not familiar with adventure wagon but they're a company
2:23
that makes custom interiors for sprinters and transits so this is a ford transit
2:29
it's a 2020 high roof 148 inch wheelbase
2:34
and we've chosen a uh like a great heather material for the in
2:41
inside and then this kit comes with uh ltrack which is the the main highlight
2:47
of the kit you're able to put gear lock it down you can put bed systems all that stuff we've gone with a anodized black
2:54
anodized aluminum l-track so it's going to look pretty cool but what they do is they put they give
3:00
you an interior kit that's in a box it's in a very big box it comes in a 600
3:05
pound pallet and it includes way more than just upholstered interior panels it comes
3:12
with the hush mat to sound dead in the van it comes with a 3m thinsulate which
3:18
is the insulation you'll need for the van and specifically a van that we're
3:24
building this one is going to be a four season van so we're really focused on the the insulation it's going to come
3:31
with a max fan for your vent fan that's the deluxe version so that'll allow you
3:37
to have the remote control with it makes operating it really easy
3:42
and then besides that it comes with the custard custom upholstered panels for the entire van so
3:49
even the front area where all those weird contours are because of like where the airbags are on
3:56
the ford transit they make just a really nice components so you're going to be seeing a lot of photography
4:03
and video of that and what got me really excited about this kit is not only is it very professionally made
4:10
but instead of just arch panelist and cnc cut where you have to pulse it yourself from what i see in this kit
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super pro job on the upholstery and the detail the level of detail is very nice
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on par with what i like to do so since it is such a high detailed kit
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that is the aesthetic that i'm going for with this van so this van is designed to
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be extremely rugged not only is it the high roof 148 ford transit it's a ford
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transit 350 so it's got excellent load capacity and
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the best thing about this is it's the all-wheel drive version with a ecoboost v6 it's a turbocharged
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v6 so this van is designed to go way out in the woods out in the
4:55
wilderness get you there and then the interior all the components are to uh help you just
5:02
be as comfortable and have such a great time in the outdoors to get the best of
5:07
both worlds so that's where we're going with this build and what's nice about that is this interior kit gives you the
5:14
aesthetics that you want for like detail and design so you can have really minimal design
5:20
looks really nice but it's extremely functional and what makes it so functional
5:26
are these components that a venture wagon designs in-house and they're the core of this whole
5:32
entire interior kit so you're not just getting these upholstered interior panels but you're getting a whole entire
5:38
internal structure that is bolted and reinforced to your van and that so instead of just
5:45
relying on your vans strength to support l-track which is okay if you're
5:51
installing it uh correctly but if you want to install very heavy items such as
5:57
a bed system that is actually sleeping two people and adjust that's one of the options in their kits that you can add
6:03
on so to be able to do that this internal uh structure is necessary and
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is uh like i said the main kind of backbone to their system so what i'll be doing is
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taking these pieces and installing them into the van this is technically a diy
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kit if you're pretty handy really good tools and understanding how to center punch a line use set screws plus nuts
6:31
uh rivnut tools rivets if you're handy with tools and you take your time i think
6:37
you can do this i've done a lot of customization over my lifetime and
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this is just a second nature to me but i know there's a lot of people out there that would like to see like a high
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quality installation video so that's what i'm going for but i just want to show you behind the
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scenes of how my vans get built the level of detail that's included in those vans and this kit really
7:01
resonates with my vision for my van builds now there are
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a number of these pieces they're numbered they start at one and depending on the number range is what's going to
7:13
be a vertical versus a horizontal versus a flat piece and so basically once this whole entire
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skeleton gets put into place and riveted into place and bolted into place
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then we can start adding our interior panel sections as well as the sound deadening and the insulation
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so it is a quite lengthy process it typically takes about four to five days for a full install
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according to the instructions we'll see how quickly we can do that but without further ado let's go ahead and kick to that time
7:46
lapse of installing our invention wagon interior conversion kit
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all right here we go we're gonna take everything out of the box and i've kind of put on the shelves you
7:57
know organize it a little bit i know i'm working on the interior so i've taken all the vertical and
8:03
horizontal metal pieces out as well as the pieces of ltrack
8:09
i've got my laptop out so i can go through the tutorial videos and adventure wagons youtube site
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and then i've got the boxes and bolts and stuff like that and right now i'm just going to unwrap and everything so i can just go step by step
8:24
what i did before i got started was i actually took out all the
8:29
uh cargo mat all that stuff
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just because those panels i mentioned earlier they go all the way down to the floor i don't know what that gap is for the height
8:42
between the panels and the floors so now i can actually see that
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and just get a read on how i want to get the floor installed when i get to that point
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what i'm doing right now is i'm taking apart the plastic wire chases so this is where the
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wiring harness is coming off the driver's side so that's where the ford transit will have all its
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wiring going to the back for like the back tail lights and stuff like that
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one thing that's important is we're going to be removing everything we won't actually be disconnecting the
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wiring harness but what we need to do is disconnect it all from those plastic clips and you really need to be careful
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because you can actually break the plastic clips it can go behind that top portion and you're not going to
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be able to get it out you have to blow it out with the air compressor or something like that so be very careful with that
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but now we're gonna move into explaining uh what's in the adventure wagon kit itself
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all right guys it's time to install the adventure wagon kit so what we're gonna do here is go
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through everything step by step i'm gonna try to adhere to adventure wagons videos as they
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go through this process obviously i won't be showing you that in this video just be me installing this
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so i might do things a little bit different it's only because i've just i've built a lot and there's just things
10:08
that i do that i've just learned from experience but there's something that they
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say that i should do i'm gonna go for that first and then make changes as needed the
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box that you're gonna look for is this one is the trent ford transit so it's transit first box
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and inside here you get a piece of paper and on this piece of paper
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congratulate you on getting your venture wagon kit first step is to watch all online installation videos have a laptop
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handy just in case you need to reference that so i got that number two don't force it says our
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system is intended to be installed and should not require fabrication and modification
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that said there are nuances and inconsistencies in all manufacturing processes ours and the van manufacturers if
10:56
something doesn't seem to fit review the installation again double check your process and then give us them a call
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and then they say most often it is something we've seen and can help provide a helpful tip completely agree
11:08
i've noticed watching a lot of transit in sprinter vans mercedes sprinters for
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example that the ribs in the top of the van they're
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not necessarily 100 perfect with their spacing the whole cutouts i have
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found that the ford transit is a little bit more accurate and then i've heard that
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the mercedes sprinter is a little bit more inconsistent with the rib spacing
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so that's why you don't want to force it you want to get stuff generally in a location see if it feels right before you start
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forcing stuff down because from what i see in this kit it's very precisely engineered if something's very highly
11:51
engineered sometimes it's a bit tougher of a fit than if you have a little more looseness but we'll see third is
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hardware installation this is very important we use stainless steel hardware throughout the interior system to ensure long performance corrosion
12:04
resistance stainless steel does not require some special care upon installation to prevent galling and
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seizing of the hardware or stainless steel does require some special care so you don't seize and call
12:16
it do not use power tools we supply four millimeter four millimeter allen wrench
12:21
use it battery electrically and air operated tools are faster but the speed can increase the chance of both calling and
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seizing so i agree with that because when you are bolting stuff together if something's a
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little off at an angle you'll put it in straight but then all of a sudden you're slightly off
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on your threads and you can gall them and if you have electric grill impact something like that
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it's just going to go right through there and it's not going to be good with the rib nuts plus nuts that type of thing
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which is mainly what we're gonna be using it's like a rivet if you strip that rivet you're gonna have to drill it out
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increase the hole size put a bigger one in it's just gonna mess up your whole process so
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don't force it and don't use power tools um
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yeah i agree on that i use the supplied loctite on every bolt provides anti-gun lubrication for the initial installation
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and keeps it from working loose over miles of travel the lock is very light and will yield with only hand tools so
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there's all kinds of loctite that i've used in the past they're providing loctite 248 it's the
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blue so i go by color there's like a red there's blue so blue is not
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permanent i believe red i think is like hydraulic loctite so that that is i
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think it's permanent but blue's really good it's not going to give you it's going to give you a little bit working time like they said 24 hours
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and i've seen this in a couple videos people are putting loctite like on the towards more of the head of the bolt
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that's incorrect the loctite needs to be on the tip of the screw because when it goes in there
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it is starting to coat the threads if you put the loctite on the top
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it's not gonna it's just gonna be on the top of it it's not gonna be in the thread the whole point is it's thread locker so you need it at the
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tip of the thread do not use the bolt to draw the track into the a-frame
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and the areas where the track must be must flex to meet the a-frame and attach the points use a clamp or have a buddy
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push the track to allow the bolt to turn freely okay gotcha yeah so we don't want
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to use the bolts to be the leverage that creates that bend
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or the top and anything that bends that's that's good so you just use some some clamps
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that sort of thing get it tight so that i'll show you that i'll show you that more in detail when i
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get there again don't force it and make sure it turns freely when insects tap through the nut to clean it out so it'll
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be good to have a tap and die set so that you can have a tap to maybe clean out some threads before you start doing
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it okay install the bolt with no more than three full revolutions install the rest of the
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bolts from the center each only a few turns continually tighten the bolts each a few turns at a time while
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applying pressure on the track to allow the bolt to turn freely yet so
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the gist is don't get things into a bind to where that you're gone the threads and possibly stripping them like i said
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this whole installation is pretty much going to be with rib nuts or plus nuts
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let's see what we got here so all this is going to be coated to all the boxes and tracks
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looking at the thc bbe right now this is ceiling track black bulb i'm just gonna see what these are
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this is our it's our track alignment tool we'll get more of that when we get
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further in this install
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there we go that's what i was looking for okay so here
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this is a rib nut and i have a
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drill attachment tool that's coming to me tomorrow i'll give you guys a link to that but
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this is one that i used on personal van and i'm just trying to figure out what size this is
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so this is a rib nut tool it's also called plus nut and what this does is this is like a
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it's like putting in a rivet except this is threaded so when you open it up
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you take your threaded insert that's also another name for it
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you're gonna spin it down on top of here and then this
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is going to go into the holes in the van this is not specific i'm just showing
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this for an example you'll take it and then wherever it goes in the van
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pretty much need to drill these outlet so we'll just use let's just use this one for example so when it goes in here
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what you'll do is you'll bend this and that's going to
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smush the rivet or the rib nut together and then you'll take this and then
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you'll unscrew it and then what you'll be left with
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is a threaded insert that's in the van and then the rails from the adventure
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wagon kit will actually bolt into those threaded inserts so what's important
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is once you put this threaded insert in here they can come they can start to be a different angle so that's why venture
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wagon is asking you to contour your your l track
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to the wall before you put the bolt in because you're instantly because this is going to be straight the track you're
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instantly going to strip it if you just tighten it down so you need to do that
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so we'll go into all those details but there's your rib nuts um so we're going
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to get the gun already set up that's nice we'll put this back in here
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so we have our we got the rivets we got our tool we got all that then we got our
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goodie bag here the last thing i'll show you before we get started let's see what's in here this is so great they give you drill
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bits this is excellent [Music]
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we got our loctite we've got our four millimeter t handle
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let's see what's in here we've got rust preventative so when you drill out all these holes
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to enlarge them with the drill bits you're going to want to make sure that you put rust preventative on there let
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it dry before you continue a nice carabiner here
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that's cool
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we've got a little strap after this bag
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you've got uh some tie downs say adventure wagon on it nice
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oh yeah these things are exciting right here latches so you can just put that into the l-track let go
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lock something down pull the spring adjust it these are super cool
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and we'll we'll actually be using something like this to attach the kitchen galley except we
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won't have a ring on it it'll have threaded in and then we'll bolt the kitchen galley to the l-track
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you know be extremely secure in the van so you'll see that throughout the build
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that's pretty much it there's a look at these
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3m sticky backed we'll figure out what those are for
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all right we're gonna go ahead and get started that's the starter kit and then we're gonna go
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through um anytime i stop and cut the video i'm watching the installation videos and
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i'll show you guys the next step as i go into this so uh yeah we're just getting ready but we're
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gonna go ahead and start the venture wagon install all right back to the wiring harness
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first thing we're gonna do is take apart the wiring harness that is controlling the cargo lights so
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we're going to fully remove that i'm using a plastic tool like you would use to disconnect a car stereo take car
20:43
stereo speakers or automotive panels out that's just so i don't scratch the paint on the inside the van that's very
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important don't use a screwdriver taking apart the main wiring harness
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this goes back to operate the tail lights later we'll remove all of those plastic
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clips make sure you don't break them off or you'll have to vacuum them out or blow them out with the air compressor
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that's really hard and it'll be a rattle you'll never be able to get out so be careful with that
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we do need to extend the length of our wiring harness so what i'm doing now is
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moving to the back of the van where i have to disconnect uh the ground wires
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um and there's a there's a couple places where you have to do it so at the middle of my screen you can see that there's three
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ground wires so you're going to take those off first and then you're going to kind of follow that
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right above the driver's side wheel well and then you're going to pop those off
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so once you take the bottom ones off you take the ones over the wheel well off you'll be able to
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extend that wiring harness at the ceiling and that's what we want to do we need to get about about a foot
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an additional foot in length so that our wire will be able to stay in
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the new cable tray that adventure wagon is going to um
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one of those horizontal metal pieces is going to create so you can see i'm pulling it up
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about a foot and then now since i did that i've moved to the front of the van i'm on the
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driver's side i'm taking apart these protectors right here so these are to protect
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cargo from damaging the airbag system
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so be careful because once you take this foam piece off you've exposed the
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airbag system you know nothing should happen because
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there's a bunch of sensors that have to be made for that thing to go off but just be very careful because
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that light teal blue thing is the actual airbag
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um cylinder so i've taken that part i'm going ahead
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and make my way to these plastic clips i'm taking them apart to make sure that
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everything's nice and loose so that we can move this around when we get our metal pieces
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going over to passenger side we're gonna do the same thing there will also be a airbag
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system the side curtain airbag right there you guys can see it so be careful
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take out any of the clips and then make your way to the first vertical piece
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so this is where i'm starting this is one of the first pieces to put in i want to make a quick note that
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is extremely important to make sure that you get good drill bits the ones that come in the kit they are
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good however the steel that's in the top one foot of the van
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where the roof essentially is is extremely hard so that piece that i'm drilling into right
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now it is extremely hard and you have to have a carbide drill bit
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uh not a coated bit from lowe's or home depot but a professional car by drill bit
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from a site like msc industrial a master car something like that that you'd actually
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use like in a machine shop setting because this steel it's called boron steel and it is
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extremely hard if you don't get those drill bits this
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is going to take you forever so if you want to speed this up make it nice and easy have nice clean
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holes then make sure that you get a carbide drill bit you need to have three or four
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of them per size for this whole process they're gonna be expensive they're gonna
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be like 30 dollars each but you're going to have to get at least
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at least two to complete this install the next step is
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there's actually two holes per vertical piece and they're for your set screws
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set screws allow you to temporarily hold it in position while you drill the holes
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and then once you've marked where your holes are you can take the piece off you can drill them that way
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i decided to mark the holes drill them with the vertical piece on
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and then take it off to deburr the holes what i'm doing right now is i'm putting the rust preventative
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on the holes and then once i finish that i'm going to
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take the bar put the set screws back in then start my process of putting in
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uh the plus nuts or rib nuts make sure you do not forget the rust
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preventative there was one or two holes where i had
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to go back in and put extra preventative on there because i didn't do it while i was doing the
25:50
whole entire strip and once you put that on and put the plus nuts and rib nuts in it
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it's not coming out it's there permanently only way you can get the bar back off
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is to drill out those rivets so i'm putting them all in and double
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checking all my whole placements and really take your time with this
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first piece get familiar with the way it feels to cramp
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those rib nuts and once you're finished with that uh the middle section has i think it's like
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three or four rivets so you're actually gonna drill on the side here and put rivets in
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so i got my rivet gun i've already drilled i popped those rivets in and just double checking wiping off my
26:40
rust preventative and then i'm moving on to the back so here we are we're at the back of the
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van and we are drilling out our holes as you're watching this video
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i did not have the nice drill bits i just had the drill bits that came with the kit and
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you know i'd used them on that top part and they got really dull so what i'm doing right now is just
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i'm taking two or three drill bits that i have and kind of stepping it up just so i can get the set screw put in
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so again nice drill bits are extremely important to make this go smoothly
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i finally get the hole drilled so i can put my set screw in
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which is essentially a sheet metal screw i found if you don't on the hardened steel if you don't pre-drill the set
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screw hole that you're just gonna the sheet metal screw is gonna break right off at the head
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so you need to pre-drill those where the hardened steel is which is on the top and the back side of the van
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once you do that and you kind of just rinse and repeat do the whole process over again
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move on to the other side that side same process
27:52
drill the holes put your rust preventative drill the holes in the window area
27:59
put your rivets in and then go ahead and just you know move
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on to the to the back one
28:11
and then the back one is just the same as the opposite side and you kind of get a rhythm going so
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you'll know what tools to kind of keep in the van keep beside you make sure the rest print it is beside
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you so you don't forget to put it in there don't rush make sure you complete each process
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drill each hole rust preventative is used on each hole
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just so you don't mess up
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so now we're going to start with the horizontal pieces and
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to my amazement that they fit i mean they fit incredibly
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precise so this kit is
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very very well engineered uh each one of these bars was extremely precise
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and what i did to help myself it was i took uh just like those vice grip clamps to
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clamp on the bar and then even use like painters tape to kind of hold it in while i was getting
29:14
everything perfect and once when you hold it like that you really
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can't get these holes perfect so i did that drilled on my holes and
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again it's just same process over and over and over what's so nice about this is
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once the interior panels are ready to be put in they go in extremely quickly
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and it saves you so much time and that's really why i liked getting this kit
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okay i wanted to spend a little bit more time on this uh curved part right behind the driver's seat
29:51
uh so i've slowed it down a little bit from the time lapse and what i'm going to be using is i need to move this out
29:56
of the way those three pieces of tape right there i need to take the step bit and i need
30:02
to drill a hole and then i need to widen the hole enough to where that the
30:07
rib nut that is pre-mounted in the vertical adventure wagon support
30:14
that rib nut can actually make its way through those holes
30:20
because we're actually not going to be mounting a rib nut of ours in those holes the
30:26
benchmark already has it pre-made on that one piece just specifically because of the way
30:32
that curve is in the spacing you'll notice that those
30:38
rib nuts are already in that piece however i do have to drill a couple holes
30:46
on the inside so what i'm doing right now is i'm getting my rivets uh i'm getting the drill bit to drill
30:52
those holes for the rivets and i drill a couple holes and then i go ahead and get my rivet
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tool and then pop those in
31:04
and what i did is i just put in one rivet and then i drilled the other holes that way nothing moves and i'm also
31:11
holding it with my arm as i'm putting the rivets in to make sure that they
31:16
go right where they're supposed to be there are two more areas in which you'll
31:21
have to use that step bit to open up the holes but you'll know which piece
31:27
that it needs to have that hole drilled out for is because the
31:32
piece will already have that rib nut in it so there's only one or two more pieces that have it one behind the driver's seat
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one on the driver's side in the middle of the van right there where i'm standing at the bottom
31:44
and then on the opposite side here in just a second we'll go over there to it
31:52
yep so right there that piece on the middle of the van on the left you'll also have to use the step bit to
31:58
provide clearance so that'll actually go flush against the wall
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yeah we got our horizontal pieces we're just finishing them up doing the same thing mounting it up clamping it drilling our
32:12
holes rust preventative putting the rib nuts in
32:18
doing the same thing over and over
32:26
and then once we finish up with this we're actually going to go to the opposite side and you'll be able to see where the uh
32:35
the wire harness um where the channels that hold it so at the very top there's a lip on that
32:40
horizontal piece and that is where the wire harness will actually rest
32:53
next thing we're going to do is i'm actually going and i'm prepping the
32:58
roof rails now these are interesting because they can only be put together one way there's
33:03
a long piece and then a short piece and then they both bolt on top of each other
33:09
it's kind of floppy so go ahead and pre-assemble it before you get it in the van it'll make it much
33:14
easier once you put all the screws in you'll see that there's these uh
33:20
spaces between it and those spaces represent the spaces for the
33:25
uh ribs of the van and what i'm doing here is i'm trying to find my true center or i'm measuring to
33:33
find my true center between the ribs because these ribs believe it or not are actually glued in the van so they can
33:40
drift side to side you know 16th of an inch 18th of an inch or eighth of an inch sorry
33:46
um even sometimes a quarter uh it's pretty rare but
33:52
so the ribs will be kind of floating so you need to have a new reference point for true center
33:58
as you're putting in this bracket in the middle now what this middle bracket does is it
34:04
is actually holding up your ceiling panels and the long runs
34:10
that you saw that we were putting all the screws in and putting the painters tape on those go long ways and this these are our width
34:18
wise supports and so they're pre-tapped
34:24
in the plate they go through the holes in the rib and that little piece of plastic i put
34:30
in there the rib can actually be deflected
34:35
you know high or low so you need to find out make sure you
34:41
find a level point so that when the ceiling panel is attached to it it doesn't
34:47
like the fin of it doesn't peel up it actually stays flat
34:53
so what that little plastic thing does is it's helping me wedge it in there and push it down so that when i put my
34:59
rivets in there it's not going to pull itself close to the rib it's going to keep it
35:05
nice and flat so when the panel goes in like i said it will be flat and it won't be
35:11
trying to pull it up so when you actually get the piece in there you'll you'll see if you push that
35:18
metal plate flat to it it'll kind of bend up and you don't want that to happen so you want that piece of uh that wedge
35:24
in there before you actually drill the holes before you put the rivets in to hold it
35:31
so what i did next is i just went ahead and went back one
35:53
so now i'm just sizing up the back and the there'll be an adventure wagon
36:00
logo you can actually see on there and where the logo is there's kind of like a almost like a cross hairs where
36:06
you can put your permanent marker line for your center line and line it up and then that
36:11
will reference your center point
36:28
now there's a lot of rivets in here there's eight on each side okay now this is what they were talking
36:35
about earlier in the instructions about how you don't want to force it as a bend
36:42
i found that there was not that big of a
36:48
or not that chance of stripping anything because everything is very tight so i just put multiple screws in
36:54
and tightened one just one by one and it actually worked out really well
36:59
it didn't put too much strain on the screws and i was able to get that contour
37:05
and remember when you put these pieces of l-track in it's really just a test fit
37:12
uh you will take them out to put the ceiling panels in obviously but we need these
37:18
put in place right now because we're getting ready to find out our installation points for the
37:24
long rails that hold up to ceiling panels and that's where we use our special tool
37:30
that's in the box that's that special clamp so what i'm doing right now is kind of figuring out how to use the clamp
37:38
and kind of seeing how the bar is going to fit and what you can't see off camera is i'm
37:44
adjusting the slotting of the bar to fit between the ribs
37:58
and i put that on pause i go back and work on this horizontal piece and you
38:04
kind of see my clamps that's the best way to install these horizontal pieces is with those clamps
38:14
and so after this is finished we'll get back to the rail pieces right here so if you can see each one of the ribs
38:21
goes in between these brackets now these brackets have a
38:28
spot where you can take an adjustable wrench and loosen up the fitment now you need to make sure
38:35
that the whole entire piece is slid all the way
38:42
towards the back of the van and
38:47
not only towards the back of the van but
38:52
i put a rivet as you can see in the top part on that top right part
38:57
before i did that i wanted to make sure that those two anodized pieces of l-track were touching each other and
39:04
there was not a gap in between that slit so that's extremely important
39:10
once you have one rivet in there it can really help align the backhand side so i did the front first
39:17
then i went to the back made sure that one those two anodized pieces of aluminum were touching nice clean line
39:24
and then i would have put a rivet in the back and then came to the front put another rivet and then i'm just going to repeat on this side
39:30
now you see where that clamp is it's really important to just tape everything because and to double tape it
39:36
where you have that clamp because you don't want to scratch the black anodized aluminum because you're going to see it
39:44
and then i just do the same thing making sure that those two black pieces of anodized l-track are touching each other
39:51
and it's a nice joint and there's not a gap where that intersection is
39:58
now once that's finished i can go ahead and finally do all the rivets
40:04
and since they're all pushed to the very back i can go back one by
40:10
one and drill my holes going back to front
40:16
to prep to put my rivets in and what i'm doing is i'm just doing it
40:22
one at a time because i don't want anything to move or be out of adjustment
40:30
i don't want it to drift so i go ahead and put my
40:36
back rivets in first
40:48
and then from there i just go ahead and start making my way back to the front
41:03
and remember as you're doing this make sure that bar is pushed up tight to the ceiling those
41:10
clamps are going to do that but the other areas is where the clamps are not directly underneath
41:15
just really make sure that it's pushed up against the ceiling or the ribs it's
41:21
touching the ribs
41:32
you can see that bracket moved because i have those brackets loose and then once i've riveted them in
41:40
i tighten them into place
42:08
now what i'm doing is i'm measuring for my center point for the middle plate
42:13
and what i'm doing is i already made a center point off the ribs but i'm double
42:19
checking that to my new center point that is coming off of the two pieces of l track
42:27
there shouldn't be a major difference if any i mean a 16th of an inch possibly but shouldn't
42:34
be any more than that
42:42
and you can kind of see by this video what orientation they're supposed to be in
42:48
and that's it so we have our finished ceiling portion
42:55
the only piece that we have left if you remember on the right side you see where there's like a red
43:02
permanent marker so where that red permanent marker is that is a piece i still need to put on
43:07
that side and below that there's a horizontal piece that's held up with painters tape the reason i did that is i need to
43:16
put insulation in those holes up there and i need access to them because once i
43:22
put the insulation in there or once i riveted the bar to the
43:29
roof that horizontal bar and the top one that's missing right now where the wire cable tray is supposed to
43:35
be once i rivet those in there i can't access that hole again so i need to make
43:41
sure i keep those off put the insulation in first and then put those on so i don't think
43:47
that was mentioned in any of the instructional videos i just kind of caught it
43:52
because i saw that i wasn't going to be able to have access as much as i could that hole so
43:58
just heads up make sure that you keep those open put the insulation in then you can actually
44:04
rip those last two horizontal pieces in and yeah this is the
44:10
finish we're finishing up on part one the next video
44:15
will be us working on installing the hush map for
44:21
the sound deadening and also installing the insulation
44:26
so look forward to that in part two of the adventure wagon interior
44:32
conversion kit installation [Music]
44:54
you
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